Siwa Oasis Travel Guide: Best Things to Do, Where to Stay & When to Visit

Quick guide to Siwa Oasis

Best time to visit: September–November
Recommended stay: 2–4 days
Nearest airport: Cairo
Top attraction: Shali Fortress

Closed off to foreign visitors for decades, the Siwa Oasis is now back on the tourist map, and not before time!

Though Egypt boasts six different major oases, it’s Siwa that’s the desert oasis of the imagination – a culturally-rich town between two shimmering salt lakes edged by date palms loud with bird song and mud-brick structures as old as time itself. It’s here that Alexander the Great stopped by in 331BCE.

Surrounded by more than a million square miles of untouched desert dunes of the Western Desert and the Great Sand Sea, Siwa is utterly different from the experiences you can have on the Nile Valley.

Reaching the oasis takes a little planning, but the reward is one of Egypt’s most distinctive destinations. Many travellers visit as part of a small-group or private desert journey from Cairo, often combining the oasis with stops along the Mediterranean coast or the Western Desert. You can explore some of the available Siwa Oasis tours (with transport options) here.

Literally off the beaten track – the road to Marsa Matruh wasn’t constructed until 1986 – Siwa was the furthest extent of ancient Egyptian power.

Rich in Amazigh culture – better known to many as the Berber – Siwa is a place of authentic desert crafts and jewellery making, age-old hospitality and one of the finest luxury stays anywhere in North Africa.

In my opinion Siwa is the best of the oases. And I should know, I wrote the book on them!

Top reasons to visit the Siwa Oasis

1. Shali Fortress

Shali isn’t so much a fortress in the European sense of a castle. Instead, you should think of it more as a defensible hilltop citadel where Siwan communities settled in around the 13th century.

That was until a heavy rainstorm in 1926, which saw Shali’s buildings – made up of a mud brick known as karshif – disintegrate and the citadel’s population move to more modern dwellings on the sandy plains below.

Today the Shali Fortress is a fascinating open-air museum. You can easily lose a few hours wandering around the winding alleyways seeking out the perfect viewpoint or take a lesson in traditional local ceramics at Terracotta Siwa Pottery School.

Alternative views can be had from Jebel al-Mawta, or the Mountain of the Dead, a hill riddled with tombs including a couple decorated with ancient hieroglyphics.

2. Fatnas Island

More commonly called Fantasy Island today, Fatnas (or Fatnis) is a small island in Siwa Lake that has become a popular spot for picnics and watching the yolk-coloured sunsets of the region – so be warned it can get busy on weekends and public holidays.

Tours from Siwa town aren’t hard to find, and will generally incorporate the sunset (between 6 and 7 pm depending on the time of year) and time to relax on the island or swim in the lake’s salty waters when the water level is high enough.

Even if it’s not possible to swim, the island is a lovely escape, with cafés serving up sublime glasses of mint tea and birds merrily chirruping from the island’s trees.

Be warned that mosquitoes can become a problem at dusk. Come prepared with insect repellent and long clothing.

3. Oracle of Amun

A short taxi or bike ride from central Siwa is the Oracle of Amun in Aghurmi, once a separate settlement from Siwa, sitting close to the maximum extent of the oasis.

Few could say Aghurmi’s Oracle of Amun can compete in appearance to the temples of the Nile Valley.

All the same, embedded in another ancient settlement of mud brick walls, I found it impossible to shake off a thrill of excitement at standing in the location that not only welcomed Alexander the Great, but saw him declared a living god.

A trip to the Oracle of Amun can be combined with the partially-destroyed Temple of Umm Ubayd – sometimes confusingly called the Temple of Amun.

Also nearby is Cleopatra’s Bath – a less than ancient looking circular pool of natural spring water said to be where the Egyptian queen would swim. Its now surrounded by souvenir stalls and cafés.

4. Shopping

Head to Siwa’s central square at the foot of Shali Fortress for hassle-free shopping of authentic handicrafts and modern souvenirs.

Expect to bargain hard – the 2x3 metre Amazigh (Berber) rag rug I bought cost me about half the original asking price (around GBP£9 in the end, in case anyone is interested).

You can also find some beautiful traditionally-styled jewellery, plenty of dates and items including large mineral samples, alongside the usual less-than-original souvenirs shipped in from elsewhere.

Then when the shopping has exhausted you, there are plenty of cafés and restaurants where you can enjoy a mint tea, coffee or multi-plate Egyptian meal of flatbreads, salad, hummus, meats or fish, rice and chips.

5. Dune bashing

Deep within the Western Desert, the Siwa Oasis makes for the perfect base from which to head into rolling dunes rising to the height of multistorey buildings and with an ambience and atmosphere all of their own.

Off-road all the way, well-kitted out 4x4s will get you there. You can then swap the vehicle’s running boards for sandboards as you try and stay upright down the dunes’ steep sides. Or strip down to your swimming gear to cool off in a small, secluded natural spring.

If all that sounds a little too much, head instead to Jebel al-Dakrour, whose treatment rooms use the sand’s natural properties to aid aches and pains and generally give you a sense of overall relaxation and wellbeing.

Where to stay in the Siwa Oasis

The Siwa Oasis has accommodation for all budgets, from small basic guesthouses to award-winning sustainable lodges.

For a special treat, look no further than Adrere Amellal Eco-lodge, a stay of authentic vernacular architecture solely lit by beeswax candles, which has previously welcomed the likes of King Charles III and Queen Camilla.

Closer to town – and easier on the pocket – is the similarly atmospheric Albabenshal Lodge, which sits at the base of Shali Fortress and utilises many of the features – wooden beams and thick mud walls – that supported Shali for so long.

How to get to the Siwa Oasis

The best (and pretty much only) way to reach the Siwa Oasis is from Cairo, which has some great value flights from Europe and further afield and attractions including the Grand Egyptian Museum.

Head northwest from the Egyptian capital to the beachside town of Marsa Matruh and then on via the dedicated Siwa road. There are direct nightly coaches from Cairo as well as private transfers. There are no flights at present.

Though it’s a long way (around 12 hours) to travel directly between Cairo and Siwa, there are various destinations on route – or worth the detour – where you could stop for a couple of days, including Alexandria, Marsa Matruh and the World War II battlefield at El Alamein.

The road between Siwa and Egypt’s other main oasis towns – Bahariya, Farafra, Dhakla and Kharga – is closed to the public.

How long should I stay in the Siwa Oasis?

The Siwa Oasis’ blend of tourist sights, cultural connections and vast desert landscapes can be experienced in a couple of days. However, you’ll get a much deeper understanding of Siwa’s unique position in Egyptian history and culture if you extend your trip to at least four days.

When to go: best time to visit the Siwa Oasis

Surprise, surprise, the Western Desert where the Siwa Oasis is located can get seriously hot during the northern hemisphere summer months of June to August, which you’ll want to avoid at all costs.

You’ll also want to avoid Ramadan, the Muslim fasting month that sees shorter opening hours and the closure of many restaurants during daylight hours. Shifting slightly each year, over the next few years Ramadan will occur between January and March. You can check exact dates here.

Trust me when I say that the winter months of December to February can be surprisingly cold, particularly overnight in hotels that generally have no heating. The skies are generally clear at this time of year, and peak day time temperatures still allow you to explore at leisure.

The sweet spot for visiting the Siwa Oasis sits in September to the end of November, which also incorporates the date harvest – a major event in the oasis – in around October.

Siwa Oasis is truly one of Egypt’s most unique and unforgettable destinations. With its remote desert setting, rich Berber culture, ancient ruins, and breathtaking salt lakes, it offers an experience unlike anywhere else in the country. It’s no surprise that Siwa Oasis also earned a place on our list of the Top 10 Places to See in Egypt, making it a must-visit for travellers looking to explore beyond the classic sights.

FAQs

• Are there banks in the Siwa Oasis?

There is one bank, a block away from the main square. Open Monday to Friday from around 08.30 am until 3 pm, it should be able to exchange US dollars, euros and British pounds, but I’d advise getting to Siwa with all the Egyptian pounds you think you are going to need.

Credit and debit card acceptance is limited, but there are several ATMs in and around the centre of town for withdrawing Egyptian pounds.

• Is the Siwa Oasis safe?

The Egyptian authorities have worked hard to ensure the security of the Siwa Oasis. Always check official advice from your country’s government, such as the UK’s FCDO Egypt travel advice.

Unlike the situation in Egypt’s other oasis towns, you will not be expected to have a police escort in Siwa. Great news for independent travellers!

• How do I get around Siwa?

Central Siwa is small and very walkable. For attractions further afield such as the Temple of Amun you can hire a bike for the day, or hail an open-backed taxi, which could be powered by either a petrol engine or a donkey!

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